Surfactant composition method for production thereof and cosmetic comprising said composition

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to surfactant compositions made from esters or amides of the betaine glycine, produced by reaction of the glycine betaine with a sulphonic acid and an alcohol or a fatty-chain amine derived from vegetable oils. The invention further relates to a cosmetic comprising said surfactant composition, in particular, liquid soap, bath foam, shower gel or shampoo.

This invention was made under a joint research agreement between Eiffage Travaux Publics of Neuilly sur Marne, France and Ecole Nationale Superieure de Chimie de Rennes of Rennes, France.

This application is a 371 of PCT/FR05/01103filed May 3, 2005.

The invention relates to surfactant compositions.

From detergents to cosmetic formulations, via emulsification, the chemistry of surfactants supplies an extremely varied range of products which are nowadays indispensable to our daily life. Although the market for cationic amphiphiles is quantitatively smaller than that for anionic or non-ionic amphiphiles, representing a percentage of the worldwide production of less than 10%, it is nevertheless very extensive and covers numerous applications.

Due to their toxicity, certain surfactants such as the salts of dimethyldialkyl ammonium which are present in most textile conditioners, are restricted in use, and have even been abandoned in some European countries such as Germany and the Netherlands. Under the pressure of environmental considerations, the manufacturers of surfactants are having to propose not only methods compatible with these new requirements, but also less polluting products which are more biodegradable and cause the lowest possible pollution of the environment. Added to the environmental constraints is a considerable commercial argument, of using what is “natural”. To respond to the demands of the consumer, and at pains to find products having a “green image”, the manufacturers are currently researching new structures and are naturally turning to the use of raw materials of agricultural origin.

If, for the lipophilic part of these molecules, competition is well established between the petrochemical substances and the oleochemical substances, it is not yet really engaged as far as the hydrophilic part of these molecules is concerned. The direct use of natural triglycerides, such as triglycerol ricinoleate [U.S. Pat. No. 4,857,310 (The Gillette Company)], makes it possible to have easy access to cationic amphiphilic compounds. But the diversification of the structures is effected also by modification of the polar head. Cationic surfactants, derived in particular from glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid [DE 195 39 845 (Henkel KgaA)] or with a starch base comprising a sugar entity derived from alkyl polyglycosides (APG) [WO 90 15809 (Henkel KgaA)] have been proposed. Another type of surfactant is appearing. This involves molecules having a saponifiable ester function between the fatty chain and the quaternary ammonium function, such as ammonium chlorides [U.S. Pat. No. 5,527,477 (Lever Brothers Company)]. Being easily hydrolysable, the betaine esters are also currently stirring up strong interest. Various derivatives have been synthesised ([WO 96 09276 (The Procter and Gamble Company:], [U.S. Pat. No. 5,527,477 (Lever Brothers Company)], intended for applications such as textile conditioners.

Betaine glycine, a cheap natural substance, forms a raw material of choice for the production of surfactant agents. Representing 27% by weight of sugar-beet molasses, obtained after extraction of the sucrose, it remains currently a by-product of the sugar industry. The grafting on to the betaine glycine of fatty alcohols and fatty acids ([U.S. Pat. No. 2,888,383 (International Minerals and Chemical Corporation)], [EP 0 750 904 A1 (Wella-AG)] makes it possible to obtain amphiphilic cationic molecules without the conventional stage of quaternisation of a tertiary amine using methylation agents which are generally toxic.

The present invention aims to propose means of rapidly obtaining mixtures of a perfectly defined composition with a base of esters or amides of the betaine glycine obtained in the form of reactional raw materials or by washing of the reactional raw materials with organic solvents. The methods of synthesis used are simple, efficient, respect the environment without solvent or pollutant waste, are easy to convert on an industrial scale and allow the upgrading of a by-product of the sugar industry and of vegetable oils of domestic origin (e.g. colza or sunflower) which are rich in fatty chains with a high carbon condensation (stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, gadolic, behenic, erucic chains) which are even less re-used compared to oleaginous resources of tropical origin (e.g. palm, cabbage tree or copra) which are rich in caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic or palmitic chains.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 shows the stability of octadecyl betaine mesylate in an aqueous buffer solution at pH-values between 3 and 9.

The 18-atom fatty chains of carbons derived from domestic vegetable oils are known for their emulsifying properties and the compositions according to the invention cover a large range of potential applications in the field of emulsification, as well as in the petrol industry, the mining industry, the paint, pigment and varnish industry or in the building and civil engineering industry.

The invention also relates to the use of the mixtures mentioned above by way of detergent, emulsifying or foaming agents for applications in the cosmetics field.

The invention relates in particular to a surfactant composition comprising:

at least one compound of formula (1) X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—Z—R  (1) and at least one compound selected from those with formulae (2), (3) and (4) RZH  (2) XH  (3) X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—OH  (4) X being a sulphonate radical, R being a monovalent radical of formula C_(2n)H_(2(2n-m)+1) containing 2n atoms of carbon and m double bonds, with 9≦n≦11, 0≦m≦3 if n=9 and 0≦m≦1 if n>9, and Z being selected from an atom of oxygen and a —NH— group, a compound of formula XH being combined if necessary with at least one compound of formula RNH₂ in order to form at least one compound of formula X⁻RN⁺H₃.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises virtually exclusively compounds of the said formulae (1), (2), (3) and (4).

Optional additional or alternative features of the invention are indicated below:

-   -   m=0 and the compounds forming the composition are as follows, in         the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R 50 ± 10 ROH 19 ± 10 XH 23 ± 10 X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—OH 0 to 18.

-   -   m=0 and the compounds forming the composition are the following,         in the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R 72 ± 10 ROH 0 to 20 XH 0 to 18 X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—OH 0 to 20

-   -   m=0 and the compounds forming the composition are the following,         in the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R 80 ± 10 ROH 20 ± 10.

-   -   m=0 and the compounds forming the composition are the following,         in the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R 70 ± 10 ROH 26 ± 10 XH 0 to 14.

-   -   m>0 and the compounds forming the composition are the following,         in the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R 48 ± 10 ROH 36 ± 10 XH 14 ± 10 X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—0H 0 to 12.

-   -   m=0 and the compounds forming the composition are the following,         in the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—NH—R 58 ± 10 X⁻RN⁺H₃ 35 ± 10 X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—OH 0 to 20.

-   -   m>0 and the compounds forming the composition are the following,         in the percentages by weight indicated:

X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—NH—R 56 ± 10 X⁻RN⁺H₃ 31 ± 10 RNH₂ 0 to 18 X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—OH 0 to 15.

-   -   X is selected from the radicals methanesulphonate,         paratoluenesulphonate and camphosulphonate.

The invention also has the object of a method of preparing a composition such as defined above in which betaine glycine is reacted with a sulphonic acid and a compound of the formula ROH in the absence of other solvents, the molar ratio of the sulphonic acid to betaine glycine being comprised between 2 and 3 and the molar ratio of the compound ROH to betaine glycine being between 1 and 1.5.

The method according to the invention may comprise at least some of the following features:

-   -   The reaction is carried out at a temperature of between 130 and         140° C. for 6 to 8 hours.     -   The reaction is carried out under reduced pressure, preferably         of between 50 and 100 mbar.     -   m=0 and the reactional mixture is treated with an organic         solvent capable of dissolving preferably the compounds other         than the X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R contained therein so as to obtain         a precipitate enriched in X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R.     -   the organic solvent is selected from diethyl ether, ethanol and         n-butanol.     -   The betaine glycine is reacted with a sulphonic acid and the         n-butanol in the absence of other solvents, the molar ratio of         the sulphonic acid to the betaine glycine being between 1 and         1.3 and the molar ratio of the n-butanol to the betaine glycine         between 2 and 4 in order to form water and the n-butylic ester         sulphonate of betaine glycine which is reacted—after having         eliminated the water and the n-butanol—with the compound of         formula RNH₃, the molar ratio of this compound to the betaine         glycine being between 1 and 1.2.     -   The reaction of the betaine glycine with the sulphonic acid and         the n-butanol is carried out at a temperature of between 130 and         140° C., upon reflux of the n-butanol, for 3 to 5 hours under         atmospheric pressure so as to realise azeotropic elimination of         water.     -   Before the compound of formula RNH₂ is added, a strong         encumbered organic base is added, in particular dibutylamine,         the molar ratio of the said base to the betaine glycine being         between 0.1 and 0.4.     -   m=0 and the reactional mixture is treated with an organic         solvent capable of dissolving preferably the compound RNH₂ so as         to obtain a precipitate enriched with X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—NH—R.     -   The organic solvent is diethyl ether.     -   The sulphonic acid is selected from methanesulphonic,         paratoluenesulphonic and camphosulphonic acid.

The invention also aims at a cosmetic, in particular a liquid soap, bath foam, shower gel or shampoo and in particular acid shampoo, comprising from 0.2 to 60% and preferably from 10 to 45% by weight of a composition such as defined above and from 99.8 to 40% and preferably from 90 to 55% by weight of excipients appropriate for cosmetology.

Advantageously in the cosmetic according to the invention, the excipients are selected from thickeners, texturisers, conditioning agents, softeners, complexing agents, perfumes, pearlising agents, preservatives, acidifiers and purified water, and comprise as texturisers diethylanolamides of fatty acids, in particular diethanolamide of copra, with a content not exceeding 10% by weight of the cosmetic.

A first type of composition according to the invention has a base of fatty esters of the betaine glycine.

The method of preparing these mixtures consists in reacting the betaine glycine with 2 to 3 molar equivalents of a sulphonic acid and 1 to 1.5 molar equivalent of a saturated fatty alcohol of the type C_(18:0), C_(20:0) or C_(22:0) or of a non-saturated fatty alcohol of the type C_(18:1), C_(18:2), C_(18:3), C_(20:1) or C_(22:1), the numbers before and after the sign “:” representing respectively the number of carbon atoms and the number of double carbon-carbon bonds. The esterification reaction of the betaine glycine in the zwitterionic form requires previous protonation of its carboxylate function. The acid of the betaine reacts with the fatty alcohol in the presence of the excess of acid in order to lead to the corresponding esters. This reaction is carried out in the absence of any solvent, the fatty alcohol used forming both the reagent and the medium.

Preferably, the reaction is carried out at a temperature of between 130 and 140° C. for 6 to 8 hours. The water formed during the reaction is eliminated continuously under reduced pressure, preferably of between 50 and 100 mbar.

The reactional raw materials resulting from carrying out of the method described make it possible to obtain mixtures formed of fatty ester of the betaine glycine, residual fatty alcohol, residual sulphonic acid and residual betaine glycine present in the protonated form, these constituents having the coefficients a, b, c and d respectively, the values of which can be determined by spectroscopy of RMN ¹H.

When a saturated fatty alcohol is used in the reaction, rapid partial purification based on the difference of solubility between the fatty alcohol and the synthesised ester consists in the recovery of the reactional raw material by means of organic solvents such as diethyl ether, ethanol or n-butanol at the end of the reaction. The ester, insoluble in solvents such as diethyl ether or ethanol or partially soluble in butanol, precipitates and the fatty alcohol partially dissolves. By filtration, powders are obtained which are mainly formed of ester whose composition by mass may be determined by spectroscopy of RMN ¹H.

According to the organic solvent used to wash the reactional raw materials, the coefficients a, b, c and d vary. The use of alcohols with short carbon chains makes it possible to obtain mixtures where the coefficients c and d are roughly equal to zero, the use of diethyl ether makes it possible to obtain mixtures having a low residual rate of saturated fatty alcohol (b). The excellent solubility of non-saturated fatty alcohols and of their corresponding esters in organic solvents does not make it possible to apply the method described, and the only ones that can be obtained are mixtures in the form of reactional raw materials.

It is possible to purify fatty esters of betaine glycine by chromatography of the mixtures according to the invention on a column of silica gel by means of ternary polar eluants of the type ethyl acetate/isopropanol/water.

The fatty esters of betaine glycine have a hydrolysable function between the fatty chain and the quaternary ammonium. The study of their behaviour in an aqueous medium makes it possible to contribute an important fact concerning their biodegradability. The stability of the derivatives is tested by chromatography in a gaseous phase by metering the fatty alcohol produced during the hydrolysis reaction in an aqueous buffer solution whose pH-value is fixed at different values.

The measurement of the surface tensions and critical micellar concentrations proves that the synthesised derivatives have amphiphilic properties which make it possible to use the mixtures proposed as surfactant agents (in particular as emulsifiers).

The other family of mixtures according to the invention has a base of fatty amide of betaine glycine.

The method of preparing these mixtures in the first instance uses the reaction of the betaine glycine with 1 to 1.3 molar equivalent of a sulphonic acid and 2 to 4 molar equivalents of n-butanol forming both the reagent and the medium in order to form the n-butyl ester in the form of intermediate sulphonate. Preferably, the first stage is carried out at a temperature of between 130 and 140° C., at the reflux of the n-butanol, for 3 to 5 hours and at atmospheric pressure. The slow distillation of the n-butanol makes it possible to eliminate azeotropically the water formed during the reaction. To the mixture cooled to ambient temperature is then added 1 to 1.2 molar equivalent of a saturated fatty amine of the type C_(18:0), C_(20:0) or C_(22:0) or of a non-saturated fatty amine of the type C_(18:1), C_(18:2), C_(18:3), C_(20:1) or C_(22:1). The reactional medium is heated under reduced pressure to eliminate the n-butanol and aminolysis is carried out for 2 to 4 hours at 130° C. between 50 and 100 mbar.

The formation of the salt of fatty amine resulting from the protonation of the amine by the excess of acid can be limited by the use of 0.1 to 0.4 molar equivalent of a strong, encumbered organic base such as dibutylamine added before the fatty amine.

The reactional raw materials resulting from carrying out the method described make it possible to obtain mixtures formed of fatty amide of betaine glycine, sulphonate of the fatty amine used during aminolysis, a low residue of fatty acid and of residual betaine glycine present in a protonated form, these constituents having coefficients e, f, g and h respectively, the values of which can be determined by spectroscopy of RMN ¹H.

When a saturated fatty amine is used in the reaction, rapid partial purification based on the difference of solubility between the fatty amine and the synthesised amide consists in the recovery of the reactional raw material by means of diethyl ether at the end of the reaction. The amide and the salt of the fatty amine which are insoluble in the solvent precipitate and the fatty amine dissolves. By filtration, powders are obtained which are mainly formed of amide whose composition by mass can be determined by spectroscopy of RMN ¹H. The use of diethyl ether makes it possible to obtain mixtures having a residual proportion of saturated fatty amine (g) roughly equal to zero. The recovery of the reactional raw materials by means of alcohols with short carbon chains such as ethanol or n-butanol leads to dissolving of the residues.

The excellent solubility of non-saturated fatty amines and of the corresponding amides in organic solvents does not make it possible to apply the method described and the only ones obtainable are mixtures in the form of reactional raw materials.

The fatty amides of the betaine glycine can be purified by chromatography of the mixtures according to the invention on a column of silica gel by means of ternary polar eluants of the type ethyl acetate/isopropanol/water. The measurement of the surface tensions and critical micellar concentrations proves that the synthesised amide derivatives also have amphiphilic properties which make it possible to use the mixtures proposed as surfactant agents (in particular as emulsifiers).

The ester and amide derivatives of the betaine glycine have good surfactant properties with surface tensions and critical micellar concentrations which are relatively low. These derivatives according to the invention have surface tensions of the same order as the reference surfactants such as alkyl polyglucosides or sodium dodecyl sulphate (known by the registered Trade Mark SDS), which is widely used in industry. Compared to these commercial derivatives, critical micellar concentrations are obtained which are lower, which has a major advantage. In fact, less product is needed to obtain micellar solutions.

In the presence of water, these derivatives hydrate to varying degrees according to the condensation of carbon in the chains. They thus make it possible to homogenise a water-oil mixture by acting on the interactions which are both hydrophilic (surfactant/water) and lipophilic (surfactant/oil). They allow the formulation of very stable emulsions, including for low concentrations of surfactant, for variable water/surfactant/oil ratios and for different types of oil (in particular fatty acid methyl esters).

These single-chain surfactants are found to be very advantageous due to their foaming capacity and the stability of the foams formed, since they are as effective as SDS (registered Trade Mark), hence their use in the formulation of foaming products such as shampoos, liquid soaps, shower gels and bath foams.

Thus, the invention supplies cosmetics containing 0.2 to 60% and preferably 10 to 45% by weight of a surfactant composition according to the invention and from 99.8 to 40% and preferably 90 to 55% by weight excipients.

Such a cosmetic may be a liquid soap, a bath foam, a shower gel or a shampoo, in particular an acid shampoo having excellent foaming properties, associated with excellent volumising properties, giving body to the user's hair. An acid shampoo is for example composed of 10 to 45% by weight of a surfactant composition according to the invention with a base of fatty esters of the betaine glycine and 90 to 55% additives. The additives may be thickeners, texturisers, such as diethanolamide of fatty acids, in particular diethanolamide of copra which is incorporated at a level of 0-10% by weight in the formulation, conditioning agents, softeners, complexing agents and finally perfumes, pearlising agents, preservatives, acidifiers in sufficient quantity, and purified water.

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples.

EXAMPLE 1 Synthesis of Octadecyl Betaine Mesylate and Preparation of the Corresponding Mixtures

To a suspension of betaine glycine (25 g, 0.213 mole) in methanesulphonic acid (53.3 g, 0.555 mole) is added octadecanol (69.3 g, 0.256 mole). The mixture thus obtained is heated progressively to 130° C. under reduced pressure (50 to 60 mbar) to eliminate the water formed during the esterification reaction. The mixture becomes homogeneous at the end of 1 to 2 hours' stirring at the same temperature. After 7 hours, the medium is cooled to ambient temperature.

Method A: The reactional raw material obtained (143 g) forms a first composition according to the invention.

Method B: The reactional raw material obtained is washed with diethyl ether (600 ml) until complete recovery of the residue. The precipitate obtained is then filtered on Büchner and rinsed several times with the same solvent (2 □.200 ml). The product is dried in a vacuum and 96 g of a white powder is eventually obtained.

Method C: The reactional raw material obtained is washed with ethanol (800 ml) until complete recovery of the residue. The precipitate obtained is then filtered on Büchner and rinsed several times with the same solvent (2 □.200 ml). The product is dried in a vacuum and 87 g of a white powder is eventually obtained.

Method D: The reactional raw material obtained is washed with n-butanol (900 ml) until complete recovery of the residue. The precipitate obtained is then filtered on Büchner and rinsed several times with the same solvent (2 □.200 ml). The product is dried in a vacuum and 42 g of a slightly grey powder is eventually obtained.

The composition of each mixture is evaluated by RMN of the proton by measuring the integration ratios between the different components. The RMN spectra are recorded on a Bruker ARX-400 apparatus. The RMN ¹H spectra are obtained at 400 MHz (s=singlet, d=doublet, t=triplet, m=multiplet, I=wide). The RMN ¹³C spectra are obtained at 100 MHz in the decoupling mode of the proton. The chemical displacements are given in ppm relative to internal TMS (δ scale) and the coupling constants (J) in Hz.

RMN ¹H of the reactional raw material (CDCl₃+CD₃OD, 1/1): δ 0.84 (t, CH₃ ester+CH₃ alcohol, ³J 6.7 Hz), 1.22 (sl, (CH ₂)₁₅CH₃ ester+(CH ₂)₁₅CH₃ alcohol), 1.51 (m, CH ₂CH₂O alcohol), 1.65 (m, CH ₂CH₂O ester), 2.73 (s, CH₃SO₃ ⁻ ester+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ acid+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ betaine glycine), 3.29 (s, (CH₃)₃ ester+(CH₃)₃ betaine glycine), 3.51 (t, CH₂ CH ₂O alcohol, ³J 6.7 Hz), 4.20 (t, CH₂ CH ₂O ester, ³J 6.8 Hz), 4.25 (s, CH₂CO betaine glycine), 4.33 (s, CH₂CO ester).

Composition of the Mixtures

Method of treatment a b c d A 50 19 23 8 B 72 10 8 10 C 80 20 0 0 D 70 26 4 0 a, b, c and d are expressed as a percentage by mass.

The reactional raw material or the product obtained by the method of treatment B is chromatographed on a column of silica gel (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (6.2:3:0.8)) in order to give about 70 g of octadecyl betaine mesylate.

-   -   C₂₄H₅₁NO₅S; M=465.74 g/mole     -   White solid; yield: ≈70%

CCM: R_(f) 0.39 (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (6:3:1))

IR (Nujol) ν (cm⁻¹): 1755 (C═O)

RMN ¹H (CDCl₃+CD₃OD, 1/1):

δ 0.83 (t, 3H, CH₃, ³J 6/7 Hz), 1.22 (sl, 30H, (CH ₂)₁₅CH₃), 1.65 (m, 2H, CH ₂CH₂O), 2.70 (s, 3H, CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 3.29 (s, 9H, (CH ₃)₃), 4.20 (t, 2H, CH₂ CH ₂O, ³J 6.7 Hz), 4.34 (s, 2H, CH₂CO).

RMN ¹³C (CDCl₃+CD₃OD, 1/1):

δ 14.33 (CH₃), 23.17, 26.22, 28.82, 29.71, 29.88, 30.02, 30.08, 30.19, 32.45 (CH₂ aliph.), 39.50 (CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 54.18 ((CH₃)₃), 63.46 (CH₂ CH₂O), 67.27 (CH₂CO) 165.24 (CH₂ CO).

EXAMPLE 2 Synthesis of 9-octadecenyl Betaine Mesylate and Preparation of the Corresponding Mixture

To a suspension of betaine glycine (30 g, 0.256 mole) in methanesulphonic acid (61.523 g, 0.64 mole) is added oleic alcohol (96.25 g, 0.359 mole). The mixture thus obtained is heated progressively to 130° C. under reduced pressure (50 to 100 mbar) in order to eliminate the water formed during the esterification reaction. The mixture becomes homogeneous at the end of 1 to 2 hours' stirring at the same temperature. After 7 hours, the medium is cooled to ambient temperature. The reactional raw material obtained (210 g) forms a composition according to the invention.

RMN ¹H of the reactional raw material (CDCL₃):

δ 0.83 (t, CH₃ ester+CH₃ alcohol, ³J 6.8 Hz), 1.22 (sl, CH₃(CH ₂)₆CH₂CH═CH CH₂(CH ₂)₅CH₂CH₂O ester+alcohol), 1.50 (m, CH ₂CH₂O alcohol), 1.64 (m, CH ₂CH₂O ester) 1.94 (m, CH ₂CH═CHCH ₂ ester+CH ₂CH═CHCH ₂ alcohol), 2.74 (s, CH₃SO₃ ⁻ ester+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ acid+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ betaine glycine), 3.30 (s, (CH₃)₃ ester+(CH₃)₃ betaine glycine), 3.51 (t, CH₂ CH ₂O alcohol, ³J 6.7 Hz), 4.19 (t, CH ₂CH₂O ester, ³J 6.8 Hz), 4.24 (s, CH₂CO betaine glycine), 4.32 (s, CH₂CO ester), 5.30 (m, CH₂ CH═CHCH₂ ester+CH₂ CH═CHCH₂ alcohol).

Composition of the Mixture

Method of treatment a b c d A 48 36 14 2 a, b, c and d are expressed as a percentage by mass.

The reactional raw material is chromatographed on a column of silica gel (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (6.2:3:0.8 then 6:3:1)) to give about 100 g 9-octadecenyl betaine mesylate.

-   -   C₂₄H₄₉NO₅S; M=463.72 g/mol     -   Yellow viscous oil; yield: ≈85%

CCM: Rf 0.4 (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (6:3:1))

IR (Nujol) ν (cm⁻¹): 1755 (C═O); 1650 (C═C)

RMN ⁻¹H (CDCl₃):

δ 0.83 (t, 3H, CH₃, ³J 6.8 Hz), 1.22 (sl, 22H, CH₃(CH ₂)₆ CH₂CH═CH CH₂(CH ₂)₅ CH₂CH₂O), 1.64 (m, 2H, CH ₂CH₂O), 1.94 (m, 4H, CH ₂CH═CHCH ₂), 2.71 (s, 3H, CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 3.30 (s, 9H, (CH₃)₃), 4.19 (t, 2H, CH₂ CH ₂O, ³J 6.8 Hz), 4.32 (s, 2H, CH₂CO), 5.31 (m, 2H, CH₂ CH═CHCH₂).

RMN ¹³C (CDCl₃):

δ 14.21 (CH₃), 22.90, 25.89, 27.40, 28.49, 29.38, 29.52, 29.62, 29.73, 29.86, 29.91, 29.96, 32.13, 32.81 (CH₂ aliph.), 39.27 (CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 54.09 ((CH₃)₃), 63.22 (CH₂ CH₂O), 67.09 (CH₂CO), 129.93, 130.24 (CH₂ CH═CHCH₂), 164.88 (CH₂CO).

EXAMPLE 3 Synthesis of Betainylaminooctadecane Mesylate and Preparation of a Corresponding Mixture

A suspension of betaine glycine (25 g, 0.213 mole) in n-butanol (59 ml, 0.64 mole) was formed in the presence of methanesulphonic acid (22.56 g, 0.235 mole). The reactional mixture is brought to the reflux point of n-butanol at 140° C. The medium becomes homogeneous at the end of 3 to 4 hours' stirring. To the mixture cooled to ambient temperature is added dibutylamine (8.27 g, 0.064 mole) and the medium is stirred for about 15 minutes. Octadecylamine is then added (69 g, 0.256 mole), then the n-butanol is eliminated under reduced pressure. Aminolysis is carried out at 130° C. under reduced pressure (50 to 100 mbar). After 3 hours, the medium is cooled to ambient temperature. The reaction raw material obtained is washed with diethyl ether (1600 ml) until complete recovery of the residue. The precipitate obtained is then filtered on a Büchner and rinsed several times with the same solvent (2 □.200 ml). The product is dried in a vacuum and 98 g of a white powder having a surfactant composition according to the invention is eventually obtained.

RMN ¹H of the mixture obtained (CDCL₃+CD₃OD, 1/1):

δ 0.90 (t, CH₃ amide+CH₃ amine salt, ³J 6.7 Hz), 1.29 (sl, (CH ₂)₁₅CH₃ amide+(CH ₂)₁₅CH₃ amine salt), 1.56 (m, CH ₂CH₂NH amide), 1.67 (m, CH ₂CH₂NH₃ ⁺ amine salt), 2.78 (s, CH₃SO₃ ⁻ amide+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ amine salt+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ betaine glycine), 2.91 (m, CH₂ CH ₂NH₃ ⁺ amine salt), 3.26 (m, CH₂CH₂NH amide), 3.30 (s, (CH₃)₃ betaine glycine), 3.35 (s, (CH₃)₃ amide), 3.82 (s, CH₂CO betaine glycine), 4.10 (s, CH₂CO amide).

Composition of the Mixture

Method of treatment e f g h B 58 35 0 10

e, f, g and h are expressed as a percentage by mass of the mixture.

The product obtained by the method of treatment B is chromatographed on a column of silica gel (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (6:3:1 then 5:3:2) to give about 58 g betainylaminooctadecane mesylate.

-   -   C₂₄H₅₂N₂O₄S; M=464.75 g/mol     -   White solid; yield: ≈60%

CCM: Rf 0.5 (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (5:3:2))

IR (Nujol) ν (cm⁻¹): 1680 (Amide I); 1578 (Amide II)

RMN ¹H (DMSO):

δ 0.86 (t, 3H, CH₃, ³J 6.8 Hz), 1.25 (sl, 30H, (CH ₂)₁₅CH₃), 1.45 (m, 2H, CH ₂CH₂NH), 2.37 (s, 3H, CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 3.10 (m 2H, CH₂ CH ₂NH), 3.21 (s, 9H, (CH₃)₃, 4.05 (s, 2H, CH₂CO), 8.64 (s, 1H, NH).

RMN ¹³C (DMSO):

δ 13.40 (CH₃) 21.63, 24.22, 26.01, 28.27, 28.59, 30.88 (CH₂aliph.), 38.50, (CH₂NH), 39.42 (CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 53.35 ((CH₃)₃), 64.24 (CH ₂CO), 162.66 (CH₂ CO).

EXAMPLE 4 Synthesis of betainylaminooctadecenyl mesylate and Preparation of the Corresponding Mixture

A suspension of betaine glycine (25 g, 0.213 mole) in n-butanol (59 ml, 0.64 mole) was formed in the presence of methanesulphonic acid (22.56 g, 0.235 mole). The reactional mixture is brought to the reflux point of n-butanol at 140° C. The medium becomes homogeneous at the end of 3 to 4 hours' stirring. To the mixture cooled to ambient temperature is added oleic amine (68.5 g, 0.256 mole), then the n-butanol is eliminated under reduced pressure. Aminolysis is carried out at 130-140° C. under reduced pressure (50 to 100 mbar). After 3 hours, the medium is cooled to ambient temperature. The reactional raw material obtained (114 g) forms a surfactant composition according to the invention.

RMN 1H of the reactional raw material (CDCl₃):

δ 0.86 (t, CH₃ amide+CH₃ amine salt+CH₃ amine, ³J 6.7 Hz), 1.29 (sl, CH₃(CH ₂)₆CH₂CH═CHCH₂(CH ₂)₅CH₂CH₂N amide+amine salt+amine+CH ₂CH₂NH₂ amine), 1.52 (m, CH ₂CH₂NH amide), 1.61 (m, CH ₂CH₂NH₃ ⁺ amine salt), 1.98 (m, CH ₂CH═CHCH ₂ amide+amine salt+amine), 2.67 (t, CH₂ CH ₂NH₂ amine, ³J 6.8 Hz), 2.73 (s, CH₃SO₃ ⁻ amide+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ amine salt+CH₃SO₃ ⁻ betaine glycine), 2.87 (m, CH₂ CH ₂NH₃ ⁺ amine salt), 3.21 (m, CH₂ CH═NH amide), 3.27 (s, (CH₃)₃ betaine glycine), 3.31 (s, (CH₃)₃ amide), 3.77 (s, CH₂CO betaine glycine), 4.08 (s, CH₂CO amide), 5.30 (m, CH₂ CH═CHCH₂ amide+amine salt+amine).

Composition of the Mixture

Method of treatment e f g h A 56 31 8 5 e, f, g and h are expressed as a percentage by mass of the mixture.

The reactional raw material is chromatographed on a column of silica gel (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (6:3:1 then 5:3:2)) in order to give about 64 g of betainylaminooctadecenyl mesylate.

-   -   C₂₄H₅₀N₂O₄S; M=462.74 g/mol     -   White solid; yield: ≈65%

CCM: Rf 0.52 (ethyl acetate-isopropanol-water (5:3:2))

IR (Nujol) ν (cm⁻¹): 1678 (Amide I); 1576 (Amide II) 1640 (C═C)

RMN ¹H (DMSO):

δ 0.84 (t, 3H, CH₃, ³J 6.7 Hz), 1.23 (sl 22H, CH₃(CH ₂)₆CH₂CH═CHCH₂(CH ₂)₅CH₂CH₂NH), 1.40 (m, 2H, CH ₂CH₂NH), 1.97 (m, 4H, CH ₂CH═CHCH ₂), 2.33 (s, 3H, CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 3.08 (m, 2H, CH₂ CH ₂NH), 3.20 (s, 9H, (CH₃)₃), 4.07 (s, 2H, CH₂CO), 5.31 (m, 2H, CH₂ CH═CHCH₂), 8.61 (s, 1H, NH).

RMN ¹³C (DMSO):

δ 14.08 (CH₃), 22.20, 26.43, 26.65, 26.69, 28.69, 28.73, 28.80, 28.92, 29.96, 29.17, 29.22, 31.38, 32.04 (CH₂aliph.), 38.66 (CH₂NH), 39.78 (CH₃SO₃ ⁻), 53.25 ((CH₃)₃), 63.86 (CH ₂CO), 129.74, 129.75 (CH₂ CH═CHCH₂), 163.19 (CH₂ CO).

The physico-chemical properties of certain derivatives according to the invention are given below.

Measurement of Surface Tension and Critical Micellar Concentrations

The tensiometric measurements were carried out with a drop tensiometer operating by the method of the rising drop (TRACKER tensiometer, I.T. CONCEPT).

Amphiphilic compounds γcmc (mN/m) CMC (M) Esters C_(18:0) 37.2   8.10⁻⁴ C_(18:1) 36.6   1.10⁻⁴ Amides C_(18:0) 36.0 1.4.10⁻⁴ C_(18:1) 36.2 1.2.10⁻⁴ Examples of widely used Surfactants APG (C₁₂) 33.0 2.6.10⁻⁴ SDS (C₁₂) 30.0   8.10⁻³

Stability of Fatty Esters of the Betaine Glycine in an Aqueous Medium

The stability of octadecyl betaine mesylate is observed in an aqueous buffer solution whose pH-value is fixed to various values between 3 and 9. The initial concentration of surfactant in the buffer samples is 3.4.10⁻² Mole/l. The fatty alcohol released during the hydrolysis reaction is extracted by diethyl ether. After each extraction, the samples are centrifuged (10,000 rpm, 10 minutes) to “break” the emulsions formed. The etherised solution is then analysed by chromatography in a gaseous phase on an apolar column AT1 (polydimethylsiloxane) by using the n-dodecanol as an internal standard. The conditions applied are the following: injector at 320° C., detector at 330° C. and temperature gradient in the furnace; 200° C. (3 min.), 30° C./min (4 min.), 320° C. (5 min.). The only drawing shows the results obtained.

EXAMPLE 5 Formulation of an Acid Shampoo Using a Mixture with a Base of 9-octadecenyl Betaine Mesylate

Mixture obtained in example 2 32 Diethylanolamide of copra 4 Methylparaben 0.1 Propylparaben 0.1 Pale Morocco rose (rosa centifolia) 0.5 Distilled water qsp 100 Citric acid qsp pH 5

EXAMPLE 6 Formulation of an Acid Shampoo Using a Mixture with a Base of Octadecyl Betaine Mesylate

Mixture obtained in example 1, treatment C 18.75 Diethylanolamide of copra 4 Methylparaben 0.1 Propylparaben 0.1 Pale Morocco rose (rosa centifolia) 0.5 Distilled water qsp 100 Citric acid qsp pH 5 

1. Surfactant composition comprising: at least one compound of formula (1) X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—Z—R  (1) and at least one compound selected from those with formulae (2), (3) and (4) RZH  (2) XH  (3) X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—OH  (4) X being a sulphonate radical, R being a monovalent radical of formula C_(2n)H₂(2_(n−m))₊₁ containing 2n atoms of carbon and m double bonds, with 9≦n≦11, 0≦m≦3 if n=9 and 0≦m≦1 if n>9, and Z being selected from an atom of oxygen and a —NH— group, a compound of formula XH being optionally combined with at least one compound of formula RNH₂ in order to form at least one compound of formula X⁻RN⁺H₃, wherein X is methylsulfonate, n is 9, m is 1 and Z is oxegen.
 2. The composition according to claim 1, consisting essentially of at least one compound of formula (1) and at least one compound selected from those with formulae (2), (3) and (4).
 3. The composition according to either of claims 1 or 2, wherein the compounds forming the composition are the following, in the percentages by weight indicated: X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—O—R 48 ± 10 ROH 36 ± 10 XH 14 ± 10 X⁻(CH₃)₃N⁺—CH₂—CO—0H 0 to
 12.


4. The composition comprising 0.2 to 60% by weight of a composition according to claim 1 further includes 99.8to 40% by weight of one or more cosmetic excipients.
 5. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the excipients are selected from thickeners, texturisers, conditioning agents, softeners, complexing agents, perfumes, pearlising agents, preservatives, acidifiers and purified water.
 6. The composition according to claim 5, comprising one or more diethanolamides of fatty acids, with a content not exceeding 10% by weight of the composition.
 7. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one compound of formula (1) and at least one compound of formula (2).
 8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one compound of formula (1) and at least one compound of formula (3).
 9. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one compound of formula (1) and at least one compound of formula (4).
 10. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one compound of formula (1) and at least one compound of the formula X⁻ RN⁺ H³.
 11. A method of preparing the composition of claims 1 or 2, wherein betaine glycine is reacted with a methanesulphonic acid and a compound of the formula ROH in the absence of other solvents, the molar ratio of methanesulphonic acid to betaine glycine being comprised between 2 and 3and the molar ratio of the compound ROH to the betaine glycine being between 1and 1.5.
 12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the reaction is carried out at a temperature of between 130 and 140° C. for 6 to 8 hours.
 13. The method according to claim 12 wherein the reaction is carried out under reduced pressure.
 14. The method according to claim 12 wherein the reaction is carried out under a reduced pressure of between 50 and 100 mbar.
 15. The method according to claim 11, wherein the reaction is carried out under reduced pressure.
 16. The method according to claim 15 wherein the reaction is carried out under a reduced pressure of between 50 and 100 mbar.
 17. The method of preparing a composition of claims 1 or 2, wherein betaine glycine is reacted with a methanesulphonic acid and n-butanol in the absence of other solvents, the molar ratio of the methanesulphonic acid to betaine glycine being between 1 and 1.3 and the molar ration of the n-butanol to the betaine glycine being between 2 and 4, in order to form water and the sulphonate of the n-butylic ester of betaine glycine, which is reacted, after elimination of the water and n-butanol, with the compound having the formula RNH2, the molar ratio of this compound to betaine glycine being between 1 and 1.2.
 18. The method according to claim 17, wherein the reaction of the betaine glycine with the methanesulphonic acid and the n-butanol is carried out at a temperature of between 130 and 140° C., at the reflux of n-butanol, for 3 to 5 hours under atmospheric pressure so as to effect azeotropic elimination of water.
 19. The method according to claim 17, wherein, before the compound of formula RNH₂, is added a strong, encumbered organic base, in particular dibutylamine, the molar ratio of the base to the betaine glycine being between 0.1 and 0.4. 